Beginner Reference

Materials &
Print Basics

Everything you need to know to choose the right filament and dial in your first prints.

Material Comparison

Which filament for which job?

PLA

The beginner's best friend

Easiest to print. Great for decorative items, prototypes, and light indoor use. Goes soft in a hot car or direct sunlight.

PETG

The upgrade for real parts

Stronger and more heat-resistant than PLA. Use it for brackets, mounts, anything that takes load or lives outside. Slightly harder to tune.

TPU

When you need flex

Rubbery, impact-absorbing, perfect for phone cases, grips, gaskets. Slow to print and requires a direct-drive extruder.

ABS / ASA

For heat and UV

High temperature resistance and UV stability (ASA). Challenging to print — needs an enclosure, smells bad, warps. Worth it for car interior parts or outdoor enclosures.

PLAPETGTPUABS / ASA
Best forDecorative, prototypes, hobby models, indoor fixturesBrackets, mounts, hooks, outdoor use, food containersPhone cases, grips, gaskets, snap fits, vibration dampersCar interiors, outdoor enclosures, high-heat environments
StrengthMedium — fine for most things, not for sustained loadGood — handles sustained load without creepingLow tensile, but excellent impact resistanceGood — impact resistant, doesn't creep under load
FlexibilityRigid — snaps rather than bendsSemi-flexible — bends before breakingVery flexible — stretchy like rubberRigid — similar to PLA but tougher
Heat resistancePoor (55–60 °C) — warps in hot cars and sunlightGood (80–85 °C) — survives hot cars and mild outdoor heatMedium (70–80 °C) — varies by Shore hardnessExcellent (90–110 °C for ABS, 95 °C for ASA)
Ease of printing★★★★★ — forgiving, low warp, sticks easily★★★★☆ — minor stringing, needs slower speeds★★★☆☆ — slow, jams in Bowden extruders★★☆☆☆ — warps heavily, needs enclosure + brim
Typical price~€18–25 / kg~€20–28 / kg~€22–35 / kg~€20–28 / kg
Common problemsBrittle under impact, degrades outdoors, clogs if moisture-absorbedStringing, sticks too well to bed, absorbs moistureStringy, very slow print speeds, hard to push in Bowden setupsWarping, toxic fumes (ABS), poor layer adhesion without enclosure

Print Settings Explained

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Layer Height

0.3 mm
Fast & rough
Large decorative parts where detail doesn't matter. Fastest print, visible lines.
0.2 mm
General purpose
The right default for 99% of prints. Good balance of speed, strength, and surface quality.
0.15 mm
Fine detail
Intricate geometry, miniatures, parts where surface finish matters. 33% slower than 0.2 mm.
0.1 mm
Ultra fine
Rarely needed. Only for small models requiring extreme detail. Very slow.
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Infill Percentage

10–15%
Decorative only
Vases, figurines, display models with no mechanical load. Saves filament and time.
20%
Light everyday use
Brackets, hooks, enclosures — the standard starting point.
30–40%
Structural
Parts under repeated stress: hinges, brackets, tool handles. Noticeably heavier.
50%+
Heavy load
Maximum structural parts. Rarely needed — better wall count often achieves the same result.
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When Do You Need Supports?

> 45°
Overhang threshold
Any surface overhanging more than 45° from vertical typically needs support material.
Bridges
Horizontal gaps
Gaps up to ~60 mm can bridge unsupported. Beyond that, use supports or redesign.
Orientation
Try rotating first
Many parts print support-free when rotated. Think about which face is flattest before enabling supports.
Tree supports
Easiest to remove
Tree-style supports (in Cura / Bambu) touch the model less — easier removal, less scarring.
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Why Orientation Matters

Flat = strong
Layer adhesion
Layers bond sideways but not vertically. A bracket printed flat is much stronger than one printed upright.
Largest face down
Bed adhesion
Maximises the contact area with the bed — fewer warps, better first-layer adhesion.
Holes horizontal
Circular accuracy
Holes printed vertically are perfectly circular. Horizontal holes print as ovals unless you compensate.
Text face-up
Surface quality
The top surface gets the smoothest finish. Put any cosmetic face up (away from the bed).